The Ounila Valley — A Gravel Cycling Guide
The Ounila Valley is arguably the single most beautiful gravel day in Morocco — 54 km of ochre piste between the Glaoui kasbah at Telouet and the UNESCO ksar of Ait Benhaddou, through canyon walls and living Berber villages. It is the benchmark Atlas valley corridor and the heart of the Marrakech-to-Ouarzazate crossing.
The valley
The Ounila (or Ounila/Aït Ounir) is the old caravan corridor that runs parallel to the Tizi n’Tichka road, linking the Glaoui kasbah at Telouet to the UNESCO-listed ksar of Ait Benhaddou. The piste threads a canyon of ochre earth, past terraced fields, living Berber villages and the ruins of the caravan trade that once used it. It is quiet, scenic and rideable — the gravel day against which all other Moroccan gravel days are measured.
The route
The Ounila Valley Piste runs 54 km with 620 m of climbing, graded moderate. It starts at the Glaoui kasbah in Telouet (the once-powerful Glaoui family’s mountain seat) and finishes at Ait Benhaddou, the fortified ksar that has starred in films from Gladiator to Game of Thrones. The surface is firm ochre gravel throughout — fast and smooth, the benchmark good piste.
The kasbahs
The route is bookended by two of Morocco’s great earthen monuments. The Glaoui kasbah at Telouet is a crumbling, decorated palace — the former power centre of the Glaoui pashas. The ksar of Ait Benhaddou is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a cluster of earthen towers and houses on a hill above the river. Both are worth a long stop.
Difficulty and surface
Moderate. The climbing is gentle and rolling rather than alpine — the Ounila is a valley floor route, not a pass. The surface is the appeal: firm, fast ochre gravel that rolls beautifully. Comfortable with 50 km and 500–700 m of climbing.
Villages and water
The Ounila is the most village-rich Atlas route — settlements line the valley, with shops, cafés and tea stops throughout. Water refills are easy; carry 2 L and top up. Guesthouses at Telouet and Ait Benhaddou make it a natural overnight. This is what makes it the best first Atlas bikepack — see Atlas Mountains gravel bikepacking.
Season and access
Rideable year-round because it is a valley floor at moderate altitude. Spring and autumn are ideal — green terraces, clear light, comfortable temperatures. Summer is hot in the canyon; ride early. Winter is cold but fine. Access is via the Tizi n’Tichka from Marrakech (the Ounila is the gravel alternative to the pass road) — see Marrakech to the Atlas Mountains by gravel bike.
Tours that ride the Ounila
- Marrakech to Ouarzazate Adventure — the Tizi n’Tichka and Ounila crossing.
- Atlas to Sahara Grand Tour — the Ounila is day two of the grand tour.
- Ounila Valley: Telouet to Ait Benhaddou overnight — a focused two-day version.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Ounila Valley piste?
54 km with 620 m of climbing, from Telouet to Ait Benhaddou. A moderate day on firm, fast ochre gravel.
Is the Ounila rideable year-round?
Yes — it is a valley floor at moderate altitude, so it stays rideable in every season. Spring and autumn are ideal; summer ride early; winter is cold but fine.
Can I ride the Ounila unsupported?
Yes — it is the most bikepack-friendly Atlas route, with villages, shops and tea stops throughout, and guesthouses at both ends. Carry water and a map.
What are the kasbahs at each end?
The Glaoui kasbah at Telouet — the crumbling decorated palace of the Glaoui pashas — and the UNESCO World Heritage ksar of Ait Benhaddou. Both are worth a long stop.